Mastroberardino. Italien, Kampanien

Mastroberardinos hemsida

Banbrytande familjeegendom med lång historia

Mastroberardino är troligen ett av Italiens äldsta vinhus och ligger i Kampanien. Den ursprungliga källaren uppfördes av Piero Mastro di Berardino i början av 1700-talet i Irpinia och har varit i familjen Mastroberardinos ägo sedan dess.

Historia

Idag drivs företaget dock av en annan Piero som tillhör den 10:e generationen. Mastroberardino är en tung spelare i södra Italien och har rykte om sig att hålla mycket hög kvalitet och ett stort engagemang för att bevara de gamla antika druvsorterna som är så specifika för området. Mastroberardino var länge ensamma om att fokusera på kvalitetsviner i området. Vineriet ligger kvar på samma plats som den ursprungliga källaren men har fått renoveras till följd av en jordbävning på 1980-talet som förstörde stora delar av den ursprungliga källaren.

Vingårdar

I Kampanien uppnår Mastroberardino ett svalare klimat genom att odla på högre höjder; vingårdarna ligger på mellan 350 och 550 metet över havet. De gröna druvorna skördas inte förrän i slutet på oktober. Aglianico som är en blå druva känd för att mogna sent skördas oftast ännu senare. Totalt äger Mastroberardino ca 340 hektar odlingar men arrenderar ut en hel del av dessa till andra odlare i området. Själva producerar de vin från ca 230 hektar. I området finns 3 DOCG, Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino och Taurasi. Mastroberardino producerar vin från samtliga av dessa områden. Utöver detta så producerar de ett flertal IGT och DOC-viner, bland annat Sannio Falanghina och Lacrimachristi. De är noga med att bara använda de ursprungliga druvorna som kom till södra Italien med grekernas kolonisering av området även i deras enklare viner, trots att viss inblandning av andra druvor är tillåten.

Vinifikation

Mastroberardinos är ett modernt vineri med gamla traditioner. Vinframställningen är avancerad och noga kontrollerad. Inte mycket lämnas åt slumpen men de är samtidigt noga med att bevara de gamla traditionerna. De bortser inte från det faktum att de här vinerna en gång dracks av de romerska kejsarna! I de allra flesta fall, i synnerhet för DOCG och DOC-vinerna används den ursprungliga druvsorten till 100 % och låter den spegla sin växtplats. Taurasi, som räknas som familjens flaggskepp, framställs av 100% aglianico och lagras till i såväl slovenska botti och franska ekfat i 24 månader för Taurasi och ca 30 månader för Riserva. De vita vinerna får jäsa i ståltankar för att bevara den friska och fräscha fruktigheten och framhäva den karaktäristiska mineraliteten.

”5 snabba” med Piero Mastroberardino

1. What is your favorite time of the year in the vineyards?
”When the vines sleep peacefully… in the middle of winter, better if snowy, like Irpinia usually does. That’s the best moment for a winemaker to stay fully relaxed and think about the extraordinary link between past, present, future. And it is also a very impressive period for the artistic expression of a vine, as the different shapes of the trunk and the branches give their most dramatic and intense representation…”

2. What is your favorite part of being a winemaker?
”When I experiment the first results of a new wine project, of a relevant technical change, in terms of wine or winemaking process. That’s the most fascinating circumstance, as you can deeply feel the distance between a project and the work you have generated. It’s the moment in which you appreciate the effects of creativity of man.”

3. What is your least favorite part of being a winemaker?
”When I realize that distance between the project and the work generated is too wide… But it’s also the moment in which I’m conscious that the challenge is still there, that our commitment must be reinforced towards a goal, or that we might revise the goal itself!”

4. If you had to describe the style of your winemaking with just one sentence – what would it be?
”Love for classic, commitment towards change and innovation, cleanness in order to enhance the characters of the soils of the different micro-environments in the glass, freshness, salinity and verticality to make the taste as sincere and essential as possible: a great wine is never a big, heavy one.”

5. Which of your own wines would you bring to a deserted island, and why?
”Stiléma Taurasi Riserva 2016 DOCG: it’s my last and most recent revolution, which brings Taurasi back to its roots…”

Läs tidingen InVinos producentporträtt av Piero Mastroberardino här!

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