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Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé. Frankrike, Bourgogne, Chambolle-Musigny
Mytomspunna Musigny i 20 generationer
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé är en av få familjeägda producenter i Bourgogne som kan spåras så långt tillbaka i tiden som till 1450-talet och som fortfarande idag, 20 generationer senare, är i samma ägo.Historia
Namnet Comte Georges uppkom 1925 när George tog över efter sin far Arthur (tidigare Comte Arthur de Vogüé) – han kom sedemera att sköta egendomen i 52 år. Numera leds Vogüé av Georges dotterdöttrar Claire de Causans och Marie de Ladoucette. Vid sin sida har de Eric Bourgogne (sedan 1992) och Jean Lupatelli (som efterträdde den legendariske François Millet år 2021) som ansvarar för vingårdarna och Jean-Luc Pepin (sedan 1988) som arbetar som försäljningschef. Ett starkt team som har arbetat hårt för att höja kvaliteten till absolut världsklass och som genomfört stora förbättringar på egendomen. Det gick ett stort sus i Bourgogne när man i maj 2021 meddelades att François Millet efter många års trogen tjänst nu skulle gå i pension (den sista skörd som han därmed följde med ända fram till buteljering blev således årgång 2019). Hans efterföljare, Jean Lupatelli, klev in från och med skörden 2021 (och buteljeringen av 2020). Med över 20 års erfarenhet i Bourgogne kommer han senast från ikoniska Domaine Decelle-Villa i Nuits-St-Georges.
Vingårdar
Jordmånen i Chambolle-Musigny är kalkrik och ger eleganta, parfymerade viner med stor komplexitet. De Vogüé är kända för viner med stor elegans. Domänen omfattar totalt 12,5 ha varav 7,25 ha tillhör det världsberömda Grand Cru-läget Le Musigny (Comte Georges de Vogüés ägarandel utgör 70% av hela vingården). Övriga viner är Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses Premier Cru, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru (görs av unga stockar från Grand Cru-läget Musigny) samt kommunvinet Chambolle-Musigny (delvis från deklassificerad Premier Cru från Les Baudes och Les Fuées).
Vinifikation
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé är försiktiga med att generalisera kring vinframställningen. Alldeles för många parametrar skall tas ställning till för att enkelt kunna uttrycka hur han exakt går tillväga. Nyckeln, menar de är flexibilitet och att blanda tradition med moderna metoder. Eftersom varje årgång kan liknas vid en individ måste de behandlas olika. Det innebär att arbetet både i vingårdarna och i källaren måste anpassas efter rådande förutsättningar. Man är försiktig med att använda kemikalier för att bespruta vingårdarna. Istället låter man ogräs växa mellan raderna under höst och vinter för att sedan plöjas ned på våren för att ge näring. Man använder sig även av feromoner som hängs runt om i vingården för att skadeinsekter skall lockas undan rankorna. Skördeuttaget hålls lågt, runt 30 hl/ha. Druvorna avstjälkas till cirka 50% beroende på årgång (fram till årgång 2020 avstjälkades de alltid helt). Man filtrerar lätt och är försiktig med faten, cirka 10-15% för kommunviner, 30-35% för premier cru och 40-45% för grand cru. Vinerna buteljeras efter 15-18 månader. Det vita viner kommer från en 0,66 hektar liten vingårdsdel planterad med chardonnay (omplanterad mellan 1984-1997) som lagras på Troncais-fat. Mellan 1994-2014 var detta vin nedklassificerat till en Bourgogne Blanc i väntan på att de nyplanterade unga rankorna skulle bli gamla nog. Dessutom gör man en Fine de Bourgogne (destillat på ”fine lees” och vin – det vill säga den fina jästfällningen som är kvar i faten efter att man hällt av vinet) och en Marc de Bourgogne (destillat på pressrester) som lagras i cirka 10 år i Limousin-fat – dessa destillat är alltid en blend på 2-4 årgångar.
”5 snabba” med Jean Lupatelli
What is your favorite time of the year in the vineyards?
”Harvest / Winemaking time”
What is your favorite part of being a winemaker?
”Work with nature”
What is your least favorite part of being a winemaker?
”All kind of office work”
If you had to describe the style of your winemaking with just one sentence – what would it be?
”Search for finesse”
Which of your own wines would you bring to a deserted island, and why?
”Off course Musigny because it’s the most spiritual wine of our vineyard”
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