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Domaine de la Vougeraie. Frankrike, Bourgogne, Nuits-Saint-Georges
Vougeraies hemsidaMonopolmästarna i Bourgogne
Det finns egendomar som har förmånen att arbeta helt utan kompromisser och helt utifrån sina visioner. Det här är en av dem. Domaine de la Vougeraie i byn Premeaux-Prissey ägs och drivs av familjen Boisset.Historia
Domaine de la Vougeraie såg dagens ljus år 1999. Efter att familjen Boisset från 60- till 90-talet köpt ett en rad olika toppvingårdslägen i både Côte de Nuits och Côte de Beaune valde man under 90-talets slut att slå samman samtliga vingårdslägen till en ny domän. Domaine de la Vougeraie består således av enbart egna vingårdslägen och ingen frukt köps in. När själva domänen skapades valde man namnet Vougeraie efter floden som rinner i närheten av Vougeot. Det första vingårdsläget som köptes var ”Les Evocelles” i Gevrey-Chambertin som anskaffades redan 1964. Det kom att dröja över 20 år innan egendomen köpte sitt första vingårdsläge i Côte de Beaune. Under 90-talets slut köpte man den kända monopol-vingården Le Clos Blanc (som sägs göra viner som smakar som gyllene nektar) och som endast utgörs av en hektar. Vinerna görs av gårdens vinmakarteam under ledning av direktrisen Sylvie Poillout.
Vingårdar
Idag äger man närmare 80 parceller på totalt 52,15 hektar (två tredjedelar i Côte de Nuits och Côte de beaune) i 41 olika appellationer. Man gör tre regionala viner, ett 15-tal village viner, ungefär 10 premier cruer och lika många grand cruer. Totalt äger man idag även 4 monopolvingårdar. Juvelen i kronan är deras legendariska monopol Vougeot Premier Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot. 1994 påbörjade man en omdaning mot ekologisk odling. Idag är alla viner biodynamiskt odlade och ekologiskt certifierade genom ECOCERT. På gården finns en egen örtagård som drar till sig gynnsamma insekter och i ”La Tisaneraie” på Clos du Prieuré torkas och prepareras växter och plantor till gårdens biodynamiska preparat. Förutom de biodynamiska preparaten använder man sig av hästar för att ploga jorden för att säkerställa mikrobiologisk mångfald i vingårdarna. Endast naturligt gödsel och kompost används för att vårda jorden och återskapa ett levande ekosystem där starka plantor kan växa och ge friska druvor. Allting sker med hänseende till den mån-kalender som styr det biodynamiska vinodlaråret.
La Tisaneraie och en arbetshäst på ägorna.
Vinifikation
Alla druvor på Domaine de la Vougeraie handskördas innan de skyndsamt förs mot vineriet i Premeaux-Prissey. Macerationen sker i något av de 43 öppna jäskar som finns på Domaine de la Vougeraie och det är inte ovanligt att man använder sig av fottrampning. Fottrampning av druvor är en traditionell metod i vinframställning där man krossar druvorna med fötterna i stället för med maskiner. Syftet är framför allt att krossa druvorna på ett skonsamt sätt så att skalen spricker och saften frigörs utan att kärnorna krossas. Om kärnorna går sönder kan de nämligen ge oönskad bitterhet i vinet. Samtidigt hjälper trampningen till att blanda ner druvskalen i musten under jäsningen, vilket gör att färg, tanniner och aromer extraheras bättre. Metoden bidrar också till en jämnare jäsning eftersom must och skal rörs om. Även om moderna maskiner ofta används i dag fortsätter vissa producenter att fottrampa druvor, särskilt i traditionella vinregioner, eftersom metoden anses ge en mycket skonsam extraktion och kan bidra till vinets stil och struktur. Vinerna pressas därefter i en vertikal press för att uppnå en mer skonsam hantering av druvorna. Husstilen har fullkomlig fokus på elegans och att låta varje enskild terroir få spela huvudrollen. Varje enskilt vingårdsläge har sin egen handsydda vinmakningsmetod, vilket innefattar specialgjorda ekfat för jäsning – ett för varje läge. Eken tas från den närliggande skogen Forêt de Cîteaux, söder om Dijon. Det är Sylvie själv som väljer ut ekarna i skogen och de färdiga ekstavarna torkas på egendomen innan det är dags att göra tunnor av dem. I fatkällaren arbetar man med åtta olika tunnbinderier som alla bidrar med olika nyanser.
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