Domaine Taupenot-Merme. Frankrike, Bourgogne

Taupenot-Mermes hemsida

Småskalig excellens i Morey-Saint-Denis

Med vingårdar i några av de mest avundsvärda Premier- och Grand Cru-lägena som Bourgogne kan uppbringa, och en historia som sträcker sig 400 bakåt i tiden skapar syskonen Romain och Virginie viner för framtiden.

Historia

Även om familjens vinmakarrötter har belagts ända tillbaka till 1600-talet, var det egentligen först år 1963 som den domän vi känner till idag såg dagens ljus. Det var nämligen då Denis Merme och Jean Taupenot knöt hymnens band och de två vinfamiljerna förenades. Idag är det åttonde generationen som styr gården i form av Denis och Jeans barn; syskonen Romain och Virginie Taupenot. Romain hjälpte tidigt till på gården redan som barn genom att assistera vid skörden och sälja gårdens viner till förbipasserande turister på genomresa på väg söderut.

Under många år sköttes de två familjernas gårdar separat, en i Morey-Saint-Denis och en i Saint-Romain. Allt detta ändrades år 1998 när Romain återvände hem för att ta över familjeegendomen tillsammans med systern Virginie då syskonen valde att slå ihop gårdarna under ett namn; Taupenot-Merme. Tillsammans skapar de viner med en husstil som definieras av smakrikedom, fräschör och balans som vägs upp av tydligt markerade och utsökt välsnidade tanniner. Sina eftertraktade vingårdslägen till trots är både Romain och Virginie två vänligt jordnära och hårt arbetande ambassadörer för några av Bourgognes bästa lägen. De tycker om att flyga under radarn och är inte de som skriker högst – istället låter de vinerna tala för sig själva genom sitt signum av imponerande aromatik och silkiga textur som vägs upp av de välbalanserade tanninerna.

Vingårdar

Domaine Taupenot-Merme ligger insmuget i hjärtat av Côte de Nuits – närmare bestämt i kommunen Morey-Saint-Denis. Man gör emellertid viner från 20 olika appellationer utspritt över Côte de Nuits (9 hektar) och Côte de Beaune (4,5 hektar). Sedan 2003 ingår vingårdar som kommer från familjens Saint-Romain-gren vilket utökade ägorna ytterligare till dagens 13,5 hektar. Man är inte certifierat ekologiska, men har arbetat under helt ekologiska principer sedan 2002. Egendomen sticker ut, då de gör skillnad på sina ägor i Charmes- och Mazoyeres-Chambertin (något de delar med sina kusiner Perrot-Minot på andra sidan vägen). Dessutom äger de en mycket liten del av Clos de Lambrays – en av Bourgognes mest eftertraktade vingårdslägen. Totalt produceras 19 olika viner på egendomen.

Vinifikation

Druvorna som når vineriet genomgår fullständig avstjälkning med efterföljande kalljäsning vid 10 grader Celsius i 7-9 dagar. Därefter spenderar vinet ytterligare några dagar i jäsningsfaten vid 29 garder för att integrera tanninerna. Gårdens viner spenderar 12-14 månader utan racking och får ligga i ståltankar en kort tid innan buteljering. Man använder sig av ett flertal olika tunnbinderier. village-vinerna lagras på cirka 30% ny ek, medan Premier Cruerna lagras i 40% ny ek och Grand Cru-vinerna ser upp till 40% nya fat.

Appellationer

  • Auxey-Duresses (blanc)
  • Auxey-Duresses (rouge)
  • Auxey Duresses Premier Cru (rouge)
  • Bourgogne Rouge
  • Bourgogne Aligoté (blanc)
  • Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (rouge)
  • Chambolle-Musigny (rouge)
  • Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru La Combe d’Orveau (rouge)
  • Charmes-Chambertin (rouge)
  • Clos de Lambrays (rouge)
  • Corton (rouge)
  • Gevrey-Chambertin (rouge)
  • Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Bel Air (rouge)
  • Mazoyeres-Chambertin (rouge)
  • Morey-Saint-Denis (rouge)
  • Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru La Riotte (rouge)
  • Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Les Pruliers (rouge)
  • Saint-Romain (blanc)
  • Saint-Romaine (rouge)

Romain och Virginie

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