Jean-Claude Boisset. Frankrike, Bourgogne, Nuits-Saint-Georges.

JEAN-CLAUDE BOISSETS HEMSIDA

Klassisk Bourgogne i små kvanititeter

Jean-Claude Boisset är en av Bourgognes verkligt framgångsrika négociantfirmor – mycket tack vare autodidakten och vinmakaren Grégory Patriat som tränades upp hos ikoniska Domaine Leroy. På Jean-Claude Boisset förfogar Grégory över ett stort antal lägen och gör många ultrasmå cuvéer med få flaskor – allting i en husstil som andas elegans, liten fatpåverkan och sjungande frukt.

Historia

Négocianthuset Jean-Claude Boisset bär sitt namn efter mannen med samma namn – en imponerande personlighet som gjort mycket för hela Frankrikes vinnäring. Monsiuer Jean-Claude Boisset startade sin framgångsrika bana i vinbranschen på 1960-talet när han började köpa och sälja viner, och hans visionära arbete la grunden för det som idag är Frankrikes tredje största vinfirmor; Boisset-gruppen, som har vingårdar i två världsdelar med vinhus i såväl Frankrike, Kanada och USA. När Jean-Claude som ung gav sig in i vinbranchen var det emellertid allt annat än en självklarhet, hans egna föräldrar var nämligen lärare och han fick på eget bevåg starta sin vinfirma. Hans recept för framgång visade sig vara optimism, uthållighet och tur. Hans initiala fokusmarknad var England som snabbt utökades till resten av Europa och senare även USA. Jean-Claude satte snart upp en verksamhet i Nuits-Saint-Georges i ett gammal nunneklostret där 100 Ursuliner-systrar levde och verkade fram till franska revolutionen. I de vindlande källarna och i abbedissans gamla boning, med utsikt över premier cru-vingårdarna, vilar än idag en fridfull stillhet.

Gamle monsieur Jean-Claude, som är fortfarande på plats på kontoret varje dag, har till stora delar efterträtts av sina barn Natalie och Jean-Charles. Och det var just sonen och dottern som i början av 2000-talet bestämde sig för att starta ett litet, mer småskaligt, projekt vars vineri skulle byggas upp i det gamla nunneklostret. Namnet på detta nya projekt blev en hyllning till fadern; vinhuset Jean-Claude Boisset var fött. Syftet var redan från början tydligt; att göra småskaliga hantverksmässiga viner som tas fram med ambitionen att presentera det bästa från Bourgognes olika vinodlingslägen, men det var egentligen först när Grégory Patriat kom in i bilden år 2002 som man verkligen hamnade på kartan. Grégory, som då var 27 år gammal och arbetade som vineyard manager på mytomspunna Domaine Leroy, har berättat att Jean-Charles en dag ringde upp honom och berättade att han letade efter en ung, hungrig vinmakare som skulle få carte blanche att driva projektet. Grégory var snabb att hoppa på, och under de över 20 år som gått sedan dess har han med sin enorma kunskap, ödmjukhet, fingertoppskänsla och dedikation skapat ett av de finaste små négocianthusen där ledorden man lever efter är elegans, renhet och respekt för ursprunget.

Vingårdar

Grégory och hans team har långsamt byggt upp en portfölj av viner där vinerna från de olika appellationerna alla görs i små kvantiteter årligen (i snitt 11 fat per cuvée). Bland de vita vinerna finns ett femtiotal olika cuvéer medan de röda vinerna är närmare 70 stycken. En imponerande bedrift! Målet för alla vinerna är att låta rankorna göra jobbet och ha så lite intervention i vineriet som möjligt. Vinerna är koncentrerade, runda och expressiva i en tydlig terroirdriven stil. ”När människan är tyst kan jorden tala” är mottot. Grégory jobbar nära med sina kontakterade odlare, och många av dem har levererat druvor till Grégory sedan 2002. Grégory besöker de ungefär 45 vingårslotterna 4-5 gånger om året och hans team sköter merparten av arbetet i vingårdarna, allt från plogning till uppbindning och skörd – något som var mycket ovanligt 2002. En betydande andel av de kontrakterade odlarna arbetar dessutom ekologiskt.

Vinifikation

Grégory Patriat kallar sig ibland för ”en barnmorska som hjälper till att förlösa varje årgångs viner”. Grégorys metoder är långsamma och metodiska. All jäsning tillåts starta med naturlig jäst och sedan ha sin stilla gång. Alla odlare som Boisset arbetar tillsammans med måste alla leva upp till Grégorys hårda krav om kvalitet. Även i fatkällaren får vinet ta sin tid. Den malolaktiska jäsningen får ibland pågå i upp till ett år. Under själva jäsningen har man valt att använda stora ekjäskar. 41 kar i olika storlekar (jäskaren rymmer mellan 5-18 ekfat) ger möjlighet att vinifiera de olika vingårdslägena separat och man använder sig gravitation när man förflyttar musten. Nya fat används sällan när det är dags för fatlagringen, istället vill man lyfta vinets frukt genom varsam behandling i gamla ekfat, och i de fall som nya fat används är de allts mycket lättrostade. De vita vinerna genomgår aldrig bâttonage och lagras i 450-liters ekfat och spenderar alltid 2 vintrar i källaren, medan de röda vinerna lagras klassiska i Bourgognefat om 228 liter.

5 ”snabba” med vinmakare Grégory Patriat

1 . What is your favorite time of the year in the vineyards?
”Mid June when flowering is made, such a good smell of flowers and nice green colours of vines.”

2. What is your favorite part of being a winemaker?
”The effervescence of harvest time in September is so nice!

3. What is your least favorite part of being a winemaker?
”Doing spreadsheets and administration papers…

4. If you had to describe the style of your winemaking with just one sentence – what would it be?
”All wines must reflect each peace of land with no make-up!”

5. Which of your own wines would you bring to a deserted island, and why?
”A bottle of Chambolle-Musigny, it reflects so much the beauty and finess of Pinot Noir in Burgundy.

 

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